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FLORIDABIRDS-L  November 2000

FLORIDABIRDS-L November 2000

Subject:

"Shark bights in snake bite"....or...."who the heck let me paddle that far by myself" <<Very Long>>

From:

David LaPuma <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

David LaPuma <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Mon, 13 Nov 2000 21:45:56 -0500

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (163 lines)

**This was previously sent to BIRDBRAINS, so if you receive mail from
BIRDBRAINS I apologize now for the double post.
later
Davif
**THIS IS EMAIL # 2 OF 2- PLEASE DOWNLOAD THE MAP FROM EMAIL # 1 OF 2 OF MY
TRIP AS I REFER TO IT OFTEN*** ( I had to do this because Birdbrains will
not allow an email as large as the two combined- sorry for the
inconvenience)

Ok...admit it...which of you chuckled when I told you of my plans to canoe
and bird from Flamingo to Garfield Bight and back in one day? Maybe with
another person, or maybe in a kayak (Chris?), but alone in a canoe would
have been pretty unreasonable- so I changed my plan...

I arrived at Flamingo marina at 4:30am and was on the water by 5. I had
forgotten my watch at home (actually, I chucked it across the room when it
woke me at 3am, and forgot to retrieve it on my way out the door) so all of
my "times" were estimated as to the sun's position in the sky. The
almost-full moon had set below the treeline and the stars twinkled bright
overhead. The paddle from the marina to the cut between Joe Kemp Key and
Christian point was completely dark and wonderfully beautiful. I could hear
large reptiles (probably Am. Crocodiles) crash into the water from the
mangrove edges, and large waders echoed throaty croaks from the mainland and
small islands in the bay. Shadows cruised overhead, terns, herons, egrets-
calling them by silhouettes frequently preceded by "maybe it a...". The
mosquitoes were present, but not bad- although I did don my headnet as I was
in no state to be messed with that early in the morning. The mosquitoes
disappeared as I rounded Christian Point and headed out into the bay. I
paddled parallel to shore towards Porpoise point with every intent of making
it into Garfield bight, but as I reached halfway across Snake Bight I began
to rethink my plan. I had made this trip last year, with Hannah, when we
spent the first day paddling and birding from Flamingo to Garfield bight and
camped that night at alligator creek (on the northern end of the bight). Now
it was me, paddling alone, and I planned to make it just as far AND return
to Flamingo in the same day. What was I thinking??? So I turned toward the
far corner of Snake bight and decided I'd have more quality time scoping out
all the birds I couldn't see from the boardwalk last weekend.

<see #1 on map>
The tide was high so I could get fairly close to shore, but little good did
that do! There were NO birds!!! Ok, that's an overstatement, there were
birds- most of which were Am. White Pelicans, terns (mostly Caspian, then
Royal, Forster's, Sandwich, and Gull-billed, listed in order of abundance),
Dowitchers, Dunlins, Western and Least sand's, and two robotic (although
lifelike) Greater Flamingos that the park service has placed at the Snake
Bight boardwalk (can you believe they're still in the same place??!!). Most
birds were in really small groups- nothing like I saw last weekend where the
bight was absolutely THICK with birds. There was a beautiful flock of
American Avocets that flew right over the canoe- very neat! I paddled
parallel the shore, moving out slowly with the tide, back toward Flamingo.
After passing the Snake Bight boardwalk I reached a little diversion (see #2
on map) into the coast- something I'd never seen before. If you're looking
south from the S.B. boardwalk, there's a little spit of outwash in the
distance where you can make out the last birds-on-land before the bight
turns inland and out of view (does that make sense?). That outwash is
actually an entrance into a cove, and the point on the map (see #2) is
actually the spoils from when they dredged snake bight canal (or so I was
told by a fisherman). As I entered the cove, a flock of warblers made a
racket in the mangroves to my right. Prairie, Palm, Black and White, and
Yellow-throated, along with B.G. Gnatcatchers and White-eyed Vireos. In the
cove was a fairly large (30 or so) flock of mostly Blue-winged Teals, with
at least 5 Green-winged teals mixed in. Unfortunately, birds that get shot
at often seem more skittish around humans- an effect that is avoidable with
other species by being in a canoe. Hence, they flew away before I got a good
chance to marvel at them. Regardless, this cove may be a good place to keep
an eye on as new ducks show up for the winter. Upon exiting the cove I
rounded the point (see #3 on map) and entered the southern portion of Snake
Bight- the place that I think might just be the most amazing of all!
The tide was now going out and I could see the far south portion of the
bight was already showing exposed sea grass. Large waders began moving in to
take advantage of the food supply and smaller ones followed as the depth
became more suitable for their shorter legs. I contemplated entering the
bight because of its threatening water level, but as I scanned the coastline
I noticed several LARGE gatherings of White Pelicans, Willets, and streaks
of glitter moving back and forth in the background- a feature only
attainable in the presence of thousands of small shorebirds. Jackpot. I
turned into the now opposing wind and water, and paddled (through water,
then mud...mostly mud) toward the interior of the bight. On my way in I
crossed paths with three sharks, one 8-foot Bull, and two 5-foot
Black-tip's, who were feeding in the foot deep waters. Their dorsal and tail
fins fully exposed as they cruised the sea grass beds searching for fish who
might be hunkering down. Upon spotting one they whipped their tail
forcefully, propelling them through the water like torpedoes towards their
prey. Mullet jumped, flailed, and skipped across the water narrowly escaping
the attack (at least some of them escaped). I took some pictures as the bull
shark turned towards the canoe- thankfully turning away at the last second.
The whole feeding frenzy lasted about fifteen minutes, and repeated itself
in less dramatic (yet still impressive) forms throughout the day. As I made
it to the interior of the bight the majority of it was now either exposed or
under less than five inches of water. Along the coast the water was a few
inches deeper and provided better rowing, although it formed a stiff current
in the opposite direction. My plan was to paddle a good distance along the
shore and then float back with the current while birding.
<see #4 on map>
The shores were covered with birds, many of the same, Pelicans, Terns etc.
But now with huge numbers of peeps, Blue Winged Teal, Willet, B.N. Stilts,
and my favorite for the trip- 100+ Marbled Godwits! I beached the canoe and
set up for some pictures of the peeps. It's amazing how close a canoe can
get you- I could have reached out and picked up a western or least with
ease! Just as I was getting ready to shoot a picture the flock frantically
started looking up, left right, up- and in a flash were streaming in all
directions- PEREGRINE! Just as I located her she was in full stoop and
headed straight for the flock- swoosh! she buzzed them but they split in two
directions and all she caught was air. She headed back up to plan her next
move, and they found new spots along the coast- away from me this time. The
falcon made two more attempts, both unsuccessful (unless you count me losing
great photo opportunities a success) before riding the winds back over the
mainland. Most of the birds were now quite stirred up and being very
cautious of their surroundings. I kept drifting with the current and
beaching in areas where the bird density was highest. Thanks to the
Peregrine and the rising tide, the Godwits had now fled to the coastline
where they congregated with just as many willets. I soon found myself
beached in front of the entire flock, all of whom were watching me closely
as I tried to turn one into a Hudsonian...no luck. I scanned the area and
turned up some interesting birds- semipalmated and wilson's plovers, a
couple of coot's hunkered down in some vegetation looking, for a split
second, more like tufted puffins than themselves (thanks to Derek's stories
of birding in the Pribilofs).
As the tide was coming in, the sun was beginning to lose its vigor. Being
that I had no watch, I decided to call it a day and head back to the marina-
Full throttle ahead! I  pointed the bow toward the deeper water and paddled
frantically against the still opposing wind. While I was paddling <see #5 on
map> across the bight my fatigue began to creep up on me, forcing me to
focus on my paddle moving water. Lift, reach, pullllll, lift, reach,
pullllll....
The canoe angled left and right, the rightward turns being harder to recover
from because of the wind direction. As I moved across the water I heard a
sound of large wings pumping in unison. 56 wings, to be exact, belonging to
28 birds- two of them white and black, two of them bright fuchsia, and the
remaining twenty four of them pink as cotton candy. Black patches flashed
from their wings as they circled my canoe at about a fifty foot distance.
They landed just seaward and a bit behind of me, where the water came up to
their thighs. "Flamingos" I said. "Flamingos! Flamingos! Flamingos!". I must
have sounded pretty funny to them. I quickly paddled harder into the wind to
get further in front of them. When I reached a good distance I pulled in my
paddle and frantically retrieved my camera from the dry-bag at my feet and
began to fumble with film canisters. By the time I got the film loaded and
ready, I was drifting right into the flock. A few lifted wings, and the
flock parted into two allowing me to drift right in-between. I snapped
pictures, mostly trying to get all of them in groups of three or four. I
figure Chris can use them for aging purposes if he hasn't done so already.
The birds seemed quite interested in my presence, but didn't show any sign
of concern. At one point one of the adults approached an immature "white"
and nudged it a bit, moving it into a more concentrated group. Otherwise, it
was as if they were just as curious of me as I was of them.
After another round with the Pinkies I headed south towards Christian Point
where I could see the water whipping seaward between the point and Joe Kemp
Key. I knew this last leg would be a challenge and was reminded of my
hellish 20Mph headwind return from Cape Sable last year with Hannah. This
wind was only half as bad as then, but now with only half the paddlers. I
downed a PB&J sandwich before turning the corner into the wind, and reminded
myself that if I didn't paddle hard, I'd be in the middle of Florida Bay
until much later that night. I'll spare you the detail of the last leg, but
I will advise anyone making this trip to travel with a partner and watch the
winds and tides very carefully. I made it back to Flamingo at ~4:00pm where
I spotted Brian Rapoza spotting Yellow-throated warblers in the parking lot.
I'd be interested to hear what he thought I looked like at that point- it
must have been pretty funny. Well- as soon as I get some money I'll get the
pictures developed and send them to the list. Until then, I wish you all the
best of birds. Oh, and how about getting Gore into the White House
too...that would be nice.

David

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