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FLORIDABIRDS-L  November 2002

FLORIDABIRDS-L November 2002

Subject:

Camping Southern Florida 10/26 to 11/02 (it's a long one)

From:

Tim Rose <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Tim Rose <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:45:04 -0800

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (223 lines)

Now I've properly experienced southern Florida.  This was my second
visit, the first being a too-brief day/night at Flamingo sixteen
years ago.  Back then I didn't know where to go and what to look for
and I still got 10 lifers.  I did lots of homework this time, and
thanks to all those who helped.

Lake Griffin State Park was my half-way stop.  Screech Owl, Barred
Owl, Alligators in the canal with eyes glowing red.

 From there I buzzed over to Emeralda Marsh.  I regret that I only had
time to walk such a small portion of the place.  The highlight was a
light-form Short-Tailed Hawk (Lifer #B-1) perched on a pole.  A River
Otter put on a show for me.  Common Moorhens, White Ibis, a Sandhill
Crane and a Limpkin.  Black and White Warbler, House Wren, Marsh
Wren.  A soaring Mississippi Kite.  Anhinga.  Loggerhead Shrikes.  A
big beautiful Cottonmouth crossing a road.

Stopped by Lake Kissimmee State Park after that.  I hiked the oak
scrub for a couple of hours.  A little gang of Blue Jays seemed to
follow me around taunting, "Look, we're scrub jays!"  No scrub jays.
A Common Ground Dove and two Bald Eagles were a consolation prize.
Also an Oak Toad (Lifer #A-1).

Next stop was Kissimmee Prairie Preserve for the night.  What a
magical wild place.  I think it was the highlight of the trip.
Groups of Crested Caracara with those faces that look like a Hannah
Barbera cartoon character.  Armadillo, Bobcat, Turkeys, White Ibises,
Wood Storks, Mottled Duck, Cattle Egrets, many Black-Crowned Night
Herons, and on and on, and the highlight was a Black Rail (Lifer
#B-2) that popped out of the vegetation right in front of me, ran
along the trail for a few feet, then flew a few yards before dropping
back out of sight.

It was hard to leave the Prairie.  I could do a whole week there
easy.  There were no mosquitos!  And the quiet.  I haven't heard
quiet like that since I canoed into the heart of Okeefenokee.  All
the quieter because I was the only person camping there.  The sky was
spectacular, with many meteors.

Next day heading south I skirted by Loxahatchee NWR but it was late
and hot by then so I didn't detour up into the refuge.  At a roadside
stop I saw Monk Parakeet. (Lifer #B-3)  Also Marsh Wren and White
Peacock Butterfly.

Cruised around Homestead and Florida City in search of White-Winged
Doves.  No luck.  Lots of Kestrels.  Then on down into Everglades
National Park.  Gorgeous Swamp Sunflowers in bloom, and those big
Swamp Lilies.

Flamingo Camp was entertaining.  Groups of crows and vultures trying
to crack the coconuts that litter the ground.  I busted one up and
tried it.  Delicious.  Gave the leftovers to the happy vultures.  I
never even pictured vultures eating coconut before.

But here the mosquitos kicked in, and they were impressive.  I walked
out to Camp Loop C at sunset for a date with the barn owl - I
apologize that I forget who told me about that owl.  Anyway it seemed
the owl stood me up.  But what a show watching hundreds of herons,
egrets and ibises in large and small flocks flying back to their
roosts against the sunset.  That alone was worth the price of
admission.

During the night apparently the owl came around to apologize for
standing me up.  We startled each other pretty nicely when I opened
the tent door, flashlight in hand, and two alarmed glowing eyes were
looking back at me.  It flew away so quickly that I'm not really sure
what it was other than a flying pair of eyes, but it was too big for
a screech owl.

I tried the Coastal Prairie Trail in the morning.  No way.  Mucky and
overgrown and horribly buggy with a lot of standing water.  When I
did that trail in the spring of 1986 it was a lot drier.  So I went
to the Marina to look for crocodiles.   Everyone said crocodiles are
at the marina.  Nothing.  Not so much as a turtle.  Maybe they sleep
in, I don't know.

Snake Bight Trail.  I did this one in '86 too and had blissfully
forgotten what it's like.  It's heaven and it's hell.  You have to
really really want it, but it's so worth it.  I bathed myself in bug
repellent and got few bites, but the whole 2 miles or so I had
hundreds of mosquito bodies bouncing off me like rice at a wedding.
Between that and watching every square inch of the ground for
poisonous snakes, it was a high-tension hike.  But it got me a great
close-up eye-to-eye view of an American Crocodile (Lifer #R-1).  As
soon as I saw the beast, I thought, forget about the pointed vs.
round snout, or which teeth show when the mouth is closed.  It's
those eyes!  Totally un-alligator, for anyone used to seeing
alligators.  Those weird empty eyes.  Like a pre-dinosaurian monster.
By comparison alligators look downright sexy.

There were occasional bursts of dove-like flapping in the mangroves
above, and I was pretty sure who that was but couldn't find evidence
that would hold up in court, until one of them happened to land in a
spot perfectly lined up with a rare hole through the mangrove canopy.
White Crowned Pigeon (Lifer #B-4).  Then on through the storm of bugs
- like walking through rice soup - past hordes of startled White
Ibises (mostly immature) and Little Blue Herons (ditto), who always
flew in the direction I was walking which set them up to be startled
all over again.  Eventually I emerged from the tunnel into sunshine
and a light breeze out at Snake Bight.

The small visible area of the Bight was crawling with birds.  Wasn't
there once a tower out here?  That's how I seem to remember it from
'86.  Could have been a mosquito-induced hallucination.  Greater
Yellowlegs, Willet, Black-Necked Stilt, Roseate Spoonbill, Spotted
Sandpiper, Black Skimmer, Reddish Egret, Brown Pelican, Great Crested
Flycatcher.

I stayed out there for a long time - not just for the birds but also
because of the alternative.  Well, without a canoe there was only one
way back through the 2 miles of rice soup.  My crocodile had moved on
but all the same birds were still there, and they repeated the whole
ritual of flying in the direction I was walking each time I disturbed
them.  When I popped out of the tunnel and onto the road, a horde of
mosquitos stayed with me like a shadow, right into my car.

Checked out the beginning of Rowdy Bend Trail out of curiosity.  A
dark form Short-Tailed Hawk came and generously circled close above
me for several minutes.  That's a beautiful bird.

I did the West Lake boardwalk.  I swore I heard the soft little
squawking of a Mangrove Cuckoo.  I spent a long time on that trail
looking for it but only saw crows.  There was a reason for that.
When I got back to my car, there was a crow in the tree above, doing
his best Mangrove Cuckoo.  I might have said some things about that
crow that I shouldn't say about wildlife.

Saw a couple of smaller crocs at one of the ponds.  Saw an Osprey
grab a fish at Nine Mile Pond.  Saw another Cottonmouth crossing the
road.  Then I headed back down to Flamingo.  Toward sunset I walked
the bayshore and saw Ruddy Turnstones, Peep sp., and the ever-present
White Ibises.  You Floridese folks must get your fill of white
ibises, but I sure haven't yet.  The Barn Owl stood me up again that
evening (didn't our midnight encounter mean anything?), but of course
there was an encore of the Birds Coming Home To Roost show.

Up early and headed up to the Mahogany Hammock area before sunrise.
Target:  Seaside Sparrow.  Saw lots of Common Yellowthroat and
Catbird, Eastern Meadowlark and two Bald Eagles.  No seaside sparrow
this time.  I headed on up the road and left ENP.

Do we have to talk about Kendall?  I saw more Monk Parakeets around
the pond in front of the hospital and then cruised the neighborhood
across the street.  The neighborhood was being patrolled by several
Kestrels and it was all I could do to scare up three starlings and a
mockingbird.  No Bulbuls, no Oriole, and no Chevroned or White-Winged
Parakeets. No better luck in Miami Springs.  So much for the exotics.
I don't like the city anyway so I headed back out to where I could
breathe.

Next stop, Big Cypress Preserve.  Lots of Cattle Egrets at the
campground.  This trail also had a lot of standing water but I
decided not to be such a wuss.  I must have waded a couple of miles,
from ankle deep to knee deep.  I saw very little wildlife out there
but still thoroughly enjoyed the wildness of the place.  A few
Greater Yellowlegs, a Great White Heron, lots of Tricolored Heron and
one White-Tailed Deer.  Dahoon hollies laden with fruit and looking
very fine.  No panthers.  Big surprise there, huh.  I even brought
candles with me just in case I got a chance to cast a panther track.
Possum was as close as I could come.

Ripped off those soaking wet shoes (dumped out half a pound of sand)
and headed for Briggs Nature Center.  I did the boardwalk three times
and then found the Florida Scrub Jays (Lifer #B-5) out in front of
the building.  They didn't stay around long but they were a sight.

Then on down to Marco Island, just in time for low tide.  Wow!
That's a lot of birds!  So many plovers.  No Snowy.  There were a lot
of Semipalmated Plovers, and Wilson's Plovers (those silly beaks are
too big for a plover), and a whole lot of what I thought were Piping
Plovers, but they had bright orange legs, and both Sibley and
Peterson say Piping has yellow legs.  Could they have all been very
pale Semipalmateds?  At least one of them had the leg bands.  There
were also Black-Bellied Plover, Golden Plover, Solitary Sandpiper,
Dunlin, Least Sandpiper, Western Sandpiper, Sandwich Terns, Royal
Terns, American Oystercatcher, and more.  As I was about to leave, I
spotted a really odd-looking bird.  Its ridiculously long bill was
half pink and half black.  Took me a minute to realize it was Marbled
Godwit (Lifer #B-6).  The bill was much pinker, and the bird much
odder looking, than shown in Sibley.  It looked as if it might fall
forward any time and get stuck in the sand by that enormous pink beak.

I camped at Collier-Seminole State Park, but hurried back to Marco
early in the morning.  Now the tide was much higher.  Again an
amazing array of plovers and pipers, but still no Snowy Plover.  That
will have to be my target next Florida trip.

I got back early enough to canoe the channels at the state park.
With a solid wall of mangrove on either side I didn't see much
wildlife other than a Green-Backed Heron just a few feet from my head
inside a mangrove, and an egret that was about to come in for a
landing but stopped horrified in mid-air when it saw me, then wheeled
around and disappeared.   The water was teeming with the floating
propagules and seeds of the mangroves, already sprouting roots as
they floated off in search of a good spot.

North again, back to Lake Griffin State Park.  This time I spent the
whole morning canoeing the channels there.   Spatterdock, Water
Lilies, Pickerel Weed and Duckweed.  And the wildlife was there.
Purple Gallinules (Lifer #B-7) were all over.  The Incredible Mr.
Limpkin dropped from the sky 30 feet away and entertained me for a
while.  I had two mutually startling encounters with large underwater
alligators.

At night an irritated mother kept accusing her children of making an
awful lot of noise.  It was a Barred Owl.  They protested "Mom, it's
an owl!" but she was not convinced.  I was tempted to intervene but
went to sleep instead.

I really wasn't ready to leave.  I missed just enough target lifers
for a return trip.  As soon as I figure out when I can go I'll start
counting the days.

Tim Rose
Lilburn, Georgia

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